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Flying the nest - Kenya / More than just the kingdom of safaris

Nairobi | Ol Derkesi Community Conservancy | Borana Conservancy

Patchwork farmlands, the savannah’s most notable characters, and a landscape of flat plains that billow into hills, Kenya is archetypal Africa. Going far beyond the humble safari (although there’s plenty of them too), this country opens its arms to inquisitive families, welcoming them in and showing off the native cultures, sustainable initiatives and the protective side it’s proud of.

A different way of life 

Residents dressed in vibrant colours poke their heads out of manyattas in greeting as you arrive at a Maasai village. To say there’s years of tradition and history in this culture would be an understatement, but the whole family get a flavour of it when wandering the community hubs and local market brimming with crafts and clothing; learning about ancient traditions and how the tribe have adapted to modern life. The stories continue as the stars start to shine, with evenings spent at Cottar’s 1920s Camp looking at Western and African interpretations of the African night sky; sharing how the same view can elicit such illuminating and culturally different perspectives.

Take some downtime

Abandoning the long drives and busy activities, time is spent together foraging with hunter-gatherer, Letilet, in the Maasai Mara. Accompanied by a guide to translate, Letilet will share his expertise on over 300 plants in the local area, including their ancient and modern uses as medicine and food. After gathering the wild ingredients, sit down to a meal made from your harvest to chat about what you’ve found out about the native fauna. When the sun sets, congregate around the campfire to swap stories from the day’s highlights – arguably one of the best and most bonding parts of any safari. In a ‘Hakuna-Matata’ hike-away, worries will surely fade as the whole pride is rewarded with a picnic on Pride Rock. 

The caring side

Home of the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, Nairobi’s Giraffe Centre is the place for both visitors and locals to delve deep in the country’s diverse and vulnerable wildlife. Specialising in the protection of the Rothschild giraffe, the clan are introduced to these longnecked wonders and encouraged to discover the ways in which they can help them and other endangered species too.

Trumpets call by afternoon to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage, where an elephant keeper with hands-on experience of the conservation of orphaned elephants will lead the way. Herds here are no different to your own (past and present), with matriarchs, troublesome teens, and playful little toddlers bound to show their unique personalities. Every day’s a school day, so you can learn how your floppy-eared-friends are being taught all the skills they need to one day ‘graduate’ into the wild. Wish them good luck on leaving, and be sure to follow their next steps in the keeper’s diaries that record their progress.

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage has currently raised over 280 elephants, who are now parents to a new generation of 50 elephants.

Take on a challenge

Sometimes, a challenge doesn’t have to be a personal one. Out in the hills of Borana Conservancy, dawn is spent rhino-tracking with a ranger, to identify the black and white species and ensure their safe well-being. By dusk, anti-poaching patrols are the priority; visiting the headquarters with the Head of Security and taking the time to assist the ‘boots on the ground’; each step highlighting the great efforts they (and now you) go to to protect the sanctuary’s rhinos and other big game wildlife.

A way to remember

A trip book-ended by mementos, adopting an elephant with the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust before you travel ramps up the excitement of what’s to come. While during the adventure, a photographer is on hand to capture the memories of a tour guided by Cottar’s 1920s Camp owner, Calvin – sending you home with a framed copy of the best one.

 

Calvin Cottar has been guiding in the African bush since he was 15 years old, sharing the knowledge that he has directly inherited from the three generations of family that have gone before him – making this the longest and most established family-ran safari in East Africa.

At a glance...

Wake up here

Soak in a bush-bath outside your private tent that blends 1920’s character with modern amenities and enjoy the incredible views. The story here began 100 years ago, with over four generations of safari-knowledge making it a prime-base to immerse in new cultures and spot The Big 5.

Cottar's 1920s Camp

This private family-led retreat perches on the ridge of the Borana Conservancy and welcomes up to 12 guests at a time. Including everything from the local materials used to build your room to the continued conservation of endangered black rhinos, the retreats commitment to sustainable practices promises to land both feet on the ground.

Lengishu House

Just outside of Nairobi’s National Park sits this Swahili-inspired boutique hotel, tucked away in the leafy suburb of Karen. Overlooking a tropical courtyard and pool, with private verandas, there’s plenty of space to relax and unwind.

Amanzali House

On the agenda...

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Meet the elephants at The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage and learn about their unique personalities and stories of rehabilitation from an elephant-keeper

Enjoy a close encounter with the Rothschild giraffe at Nairobi’s Giraffe Centre

Be led through the Maasai Mara by expert guide, Calvin Cottar, with a designated photographer on hand to capture the family memories

Soak in the view in a truly memorable bush-bath experience

Visit a local Maasai village and learn about their village setup, healthcare, and livestock before heading to their local market

Forage with local ‘hunter-gatherer’ Letilet for the ingredients that’ll be used to prepare your family lunch

Picnic at the iconic site of Pride Rock, overlooking the African plains

Join rangers for their daily rhino-tracking and anti-poaching walks and learn more about this endangered species

Take a helicopter ride over the Sugata Valley, witnessing hidden valleys, sparkling lakes, extreme deserts and volcanic craters

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