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Flying the nest - Indonesia / Two sides of the same Far Eastern coin

Jimbaran | Ubud | Sumba

Being the largest archipelago in the world, it would make sense that not all the islands of Indonesia are made the same. While some rush by at the pace of Bali’s scooter traffic, other relish the unhurried way of life where anxiety and stress don’t feature in the vocabulary. Both ways are a glorious shock to the system that come together to make a trip full of possibilities for every generation.

A different way of life 

As members of the caste of priests who watch over the countless customs, rituals and festivals that characterise the Island of the Gods, visiting a Brahman family in Ubud opens eyes to the importance of the Hindu beliefs in the region. Inside their Balinese home, crafting traditional offerings like Canang Sari baskets is on the cards before witnessing a blessing by a High Priest and sharing in the fruit and snacks that make up a ritual Gebogan arrangement. Later on in the trip, although most time on the remote island of Sumba is spent at leisure, the easy-going and sociable community spirit of the locals (many of whom work at NIHI) is very easily absorbed. 

Take some downtime

Emerging from the jungle into a clearing dominated by a cascading waterfall is a sight worthy of a few collective “pinch me”s. As guides set up a picnic lunch by the pool, spend the time floating together as the sound of the flowing water blocks out any unwanted distractions. Taking a moment to appreciate being the only ones in the world doing that very thing, in that very place, at that very time.

The caring side

Studying environmental practices comes a whole lot easier in a place like the Green School. A fusion of thatch and bamboo alongside the Ayung River, the school’s aim is to teach sustainable practices to the future generation, but grown-ups certainly aren’t left out. Also doing some good is the Sumba Foundation, where guests visit some of the projects – including a water scheme, a Malaria-combating clinic and the school where they can volunteer on the lunch programme – that show how they’re helping the community in ways like employment, healthcare and education.

A way to remember

Wearable keepsakes are arguably one of the best kinds because they can be taken with you wherever you go. On an in-depth tour of designer John Hardy’s jewellery workshop and boutique, both consciously designed to leave no impact on their environment, you not only get an insight into how the Balinese heritage is being preserved, but also get to take a piece of it home. From being a part of designing a back grill and rendering it, to carving the design in wax and trying your hand at weaving a classic chain, the trip comes flooding back when the finished product is delivered a couple of weeks after returning home.

The Brahman family who open their doors to you on this trip are members of the caste of priests who watch over the various customs, rituals, festivals and habits that characterise Bali.

Take on a challenge

Cross stepping out of the comfort zone, nothing is quite as freeing as conquering the waves in one of Bali’s renowned surfing hotspots. The calmer waters around Jimbaran make it a brilliant place to learn and test skills with just the right amount of adventure. In the capable hands of a surfing master, all levels learn how to improve and add another seriously cool skill to their repertoire. One that can be practiced over on Sumba at Occy’s Left too. If the water babies are crying out for even more, Ubud invites them on a day of play white-water rafting on the Ayung River past untamed rainforest, towering gorges and rice paddy terraces. Then, take to a buggy back on land to explore Bali’s first purpose built ATV track through the jungle.

At a glance...

Wake up here

Designed to emulate a Balinese village, freestanding villas and residences with private pools cascade down 14 hectares of tropical oceanfront gardens, each exquisitely kitted with local Balinese art, rattan and textiles.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay

Centred on a working rice paddy field with its own century-old Hindu temple, this one-of-a-kind boutique resort evokes your sense of place in Ubud, Bali’s healing centre. Private pool villas showcase Balinese architecture at its best while colourful murals (which took local artists two years to hand paint) embellish the walls.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Once an enterprise by two avid surfers, it’s the community, wildlife and an overall irrefutable seduction that has shaped this conservational juggernaut. There’s no denying NIHI’s lavish side with forest-clad bathrooms, infinity pools housed under conical thatch, and personal butlers.

NIHI Sumba

On the agenda...

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A private tour of designer John Hardy’s workshop followed by creating your own piece of jewellery to take home

A private cycling tour from Batukaru to Jatiluwih visiting temples, vanilla and coffee plantations and natural hot springs

White-water raft down the Ayung River and drive a jungle ATV track before dinner at Locavore Restaurant

Dine like royalty at a traditional "Royal Tugudom" feast and theatrical performance  

Explore Balinese religious offerings and traditions alongside a local family

Trek to Sumba’s Mataynagu Waterfall and visit to the Sumba Foundation with the opportunity to get involved in some of their projects

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